The year 2024 ended on a fantastic note: sipping filter coffee, enjoying leisurely meals, passing by bright, colorful colonial houses and heritage buildings, and rediscovering the city, falling in love with it all over again. This time, coming back to Pondicherry felt like coming home.
The familiar scent of roasted beans and freshly baked croissants drifting from the artisanal boulangeries in the neighborhood, the lingering aroma of steamed idlis and lentil curry, the sight of the crowd gathered at the beach to watch the setting sun, with young and old alike, relishing their ice creams and finding pleasure in simple joys of life. These tiny vivid experiences simply warmed my heart.
Children built sandcastles, blew bubbles, while elders huddled together, catching up on their day and sharing laughter as hearty as their decades-long friendships. In such lively atmosphere, the cultural and societal biases suddenly felt invisible and insignificant. People from all walks of life blended in and partook in the festivities. And between these delightful moments, we savored creamy gelatos and spent our evenings strolling along the promenade, next to the Rock beach. The balmy air only added to the charm.
Every day, we would saunter down to explore the streets lined with bougainvillea and palm trees, art galleries and boutiques. Occasionally, I would stop to admire the ornate gates, stately doors, arched windows, wooden columns, colonnades, cornices, and courtyards. These features, characteristic of Franco-Tamil architecture––a blend of French and vernacular styles––can be seen in the administrative buildings, institutions, and residential homes.
My husband and I love visiting Pondicherry. This New Year’s Eve, we took a trip here, for the fourth time in ten years. We keep returning because of how this place makes us feel––tranquil and easygoing. In contrast to the chaos of city life, Pondicherry’s mellow vibe and unhurried pace of living are a breath of fresh air. The modest, unassuming way of life is what made us fall in love with this coastal town. There is a sense of freedom that is palpable. You can find it in the way the mornings begin. Cafes and restaurants do not rush to open before noon. Many shops close between 1 and 3 PM.
Here, the everyday existence seems to unfold in a gentle rhythm. It is a reminder to slow down and leave the constant rush elsewhere. People sit on their porches, and watch the world go by. Locals stop by tea stalls and coffee corners to drink a cup or two to get through the day. Families gather in the evenings at the beaches with popcorn in their hands and smiles on their faces. Children spend their time outdoors, away from phones, running, chasing each other, and getting their hands dirty with sand and water. It reminded me of my childhood days, a time when we were young, wild, and fearless, and blissfully unaware of digital distractions.
For this trip, we let spontaneity take its course. We ditched our itineraries and stepped out to see the town in a more intimate way. One moment we found ourselves soaking in the beautiful, serene energy of Svaram, and the next, we were enjoying the quietude of Sri Aurobindo Ashram. In a quite serendipitous manner, I found my way to the same Thanjavur dancing doll displayed on a shop window that I wished to buy, but somehow missed it on my last visit. Discovering Book Basket was another happy accident. A seemingly run-off-the-mill bookshop that looks like a warehouse on the exterior, but inside, it turned out to be an absolute gem. We discovered some rare, vintage books and old travel editions. All these books came at a price ranging from INR 99 to 500.
What a steal for bibliophiles!
Beyond the usual touristy things-to-do, this time, we got a chance to understand a bit about the history and how it shaped the culture, people, food, architecture and spirituality of this region. By now, every street in the White Town had become familiar to us. I had the best filter coffees, crispy, thin paper Dosai, and flavorful, aromatic dishes of Chettinad cuisine.
Our days in Pondicherry felt refreshing, as if we discovered the place with a whole new perspective. We immersed ourselves in experiences that came along the way. In silence, we sat gazing at the distant horizon of the Bay of Bengal, awed by its vastness and the ceaseless ebb and flow of the tide. The sea breeze ruffled our hair and filled us with childlike joy.
We looked at each other and simply smiled.
Between all these moments, I contemplated the beauty of life, its ever-evolving nature and how our lives are deeply intertwined by experiences, events, and sometimes fate. Perhaps, this is how we were led to Pondicherry once again, in a last-minute travel plan.
Sometimes the best things in life are unplanned and coming back to Pondicherry was one such thing.
I call it serendipity!
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